The Candy Roaster, also referred to as a Permelon or Pink Banana, is a winter squash that remains a staple in many Appalachian gardens. This heirloom is part of the Cucurbita maxima family and has a history as impressive as its flavor. Candy Roasters were cultivated by the Cherokee people in the 1800s, who in turn shared their seeds with those who settled in Appalachia.
The Candy Roaster comes in multiple varieties, hence the multiple names. Candy Roasters cross pollinate easily, leading to more than 40 known varieties and several hybrids that carry the Candy Roaster name. This winter squash can grow in a tubular, round, teardrop or squat shape. Depending on the variety, the harvested crop may come in pink, blue or gray.
The North Georgia Candy Roaster is the most widely available variety, measuring up to 15 pounds and 2 feet long in a banana-like shape. This variety has a smooth, pink skin with a distinctive greenish-blue blossom end mark and matures in 95 days. The Cherokee Nation grows their plants in isolation to be able to harvest these rare, true-to-type seeds.
No matter the variety, the Cherokee Nation and Appalachians favor Candy Roasters for their unique flavor and impressive storage potential. Fully ripe Candy Roasters can keep up to six months, getting sweeter with time. Compared to other winter squash, the skin is much thinner, making it easier to cut into. The savory, creamy flavor makes Candy Roasters a popular choice for cooking, with many recipes for roasting, stuffing, pie filling and even soup.
By Emily Morrow, WVU Extension Agent – Jefferson County